Introduction     
	Tools and Supplies    
	Sewing Notes    
	Safety Notes    
	Material Selection    
	Getting the Pattern    
	From Duct Tape  
		to Cardboard   
	Pattern Adjustments   
	Cutting out the Pieces   
	Preparing the Sole   
	Starting Construction   
	Assembling The Back   
	Applying The Lacing Blocks   
	Making Buttons   
	Attaching the back to  
		the front   
	Cementing the Upper  
		to the Sole   
	Sewing the Upper  
		to the Sole   
	Attaching the Rubber Sole   
	Sewing on the Buttons   
	Lacing Up   
	Glossary   
	   
	Design Home   
	
	
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Making Buttons
Have you made your buttons, yet?
When I make buttons, I do them in quantities of more than I need, because 
I use several jigs and many power tools so it's easier to do a bunch at once.  
That way, I can swiftly return my shop to it's intended purpose of sheltering my car.
 
As if I ever bother.
 
You can make buttons from just about any hard substance: wood, metal, 
bone, antler, old coins.  A friend of mine actually took silicon caulk molds
of half-a-dozen existing antler buttons and, using 2-part epoxy putty, makes buttons
in vast quantities.  This page is written assuming moose antler: it's flat, realtively easy to handle,
and has a front and back that lets you get two buttons out of each cut.  
Hopefully, you have lots of power tools.
 
 
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!
Please Note: Many states have restrictions about the acquisition and 
transportation of any animal product, like antler or bone.  Call your state's 
Department of Conservation and find out what the local laws are before you go 
after materials like this.
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Let's start with how big the buttons should be...I like 1" buttons.  It's a good size,
the lacings fit under without slipping or struggle to stay, and the proportions look right.
You, of course, may do whatever size makes your smoke curl, but test it first.
 
There is one tool that you must have to make buttons.  Welllll, you don't 
have to have it, but, damn, I wouldn't make buttons without it.  The 
buttons I make are circular, and believe me I have no desire to try to cut a perfect 
cirle on my band saw.  It's far easier to use a hole saw.
 
For those of you who don't know, a hole saw is a tube shaped blade that mounts 
on your drill, and it's typically used to cut holes in doors for doorknob assemblies.
 
"But, wait," you say, "what about the pilot bit in the middle?  Doesn't it put a hole 
in the middle of your button?"  And I reply, "It would if we left the pilot bit in..."  
You see, we're not going to use the thing as is...we're going to make some alterations.
 
 
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Look for a hole saw where the hole cutting portion is interchangeable with other sizes.  
Once you take the whole thing apart, you can replace the pilot bit with a section of threaded 
rod.  On one end, flatten the rod for the set screw, on the other, flatten it on three sides 
for the drill chuck. Mount that in your drill (-press, hopefully) and you can cut perfect circles 
without putting a hole through the middle of your button. 
As nice as it is, though, it's not going to cut perfectly smooth circles (especially after cutting 
about ten buttons), so you'll have to sand the edges of the buttons.  Using a power sander 
will make the job much easier (I use a drum sander mounted in my drill press).  Use medium 
grit, and hit the edges lightly.
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You can polish your buttons, or not.  I like to, but it's an extra step.  Use a buffing wheel mounted 
either on a stationary motor (ideal) or your drill press and white polishing compound.
 
 
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Drilling the holes to attach the buttons is a little more work, and hopefully you'll have 
a jig to make the going easier.  The first one I made was made from some 1-by-x 
scrap, with plexiglass for the hole guides, but the holes in the plastic got progressively 
bigger after being in contact with the drill bit so often.  I've since made one with a 14 ga. 
aluminum top that has lasted quite a bit longer.
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	| Click on the image to see it full size (27k) | 
	 
	 
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Drilling the holes is a two step process.  The first holes that you drill should be just 
big enough for the thread, about 1/8", if that.  The second step is to bevel 
the edges of the holes.  I use a 1/4" bit and press it into the button just enough 
to smooth the edges of the hole.
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On to the next page: Attaching the back to the front
 
 
		
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